I am a Japanese person living in Tokyo, Japan.
I went to my first sumo wrestling match (on the thirteenth day) with my father.
If you read this, you will understand.
Highlights of Ryogoku Kokugikan
The opening hours of Ryogoku Kokugikan are 8:30 AM, but from the thirteenth day onwards, it changes to 10:00 AM.
The morning is relatively quiet, but around noon, the crowd starts to grow, and by 4:00 PM when the Makuuchi division wrestlers’ entrance ceremony begins, it’s almost fully packed.
Since you’ve made the effort to be there early, I recommend entering during the opening hours to cheer for the up-and-coming young wrestlers during the preliminary matches and to explore Ryogoku Kokugikan.
From JR Ryogoku Station to the entrance gate
From the west exit of JR Sobu Line Ryogoku Station, it takes just a 2-minute walk to reach Ryogoku Kokugikan.
As soon as you exit the station, you will immediately see colorful “Sumo Banners” with room and wrestler names written on them.
While containing the excitement, we head towards the entrance gate.
Before the general entrance, there is a special entrance for officials and related personnel.
Due to limited parking spaces in Ryogoku Kokugikan’s underground parking lot, only wrestlers ranked as “Ozeki” or higher are allowed to enter by car.
Therefore, most wrestlers disembark from their cars in front of this gate and walk inside.
Currently, it’s still relatively calm, but around 2:00 PM when popular wrestlers start entering, camera-wielding fans will flock in.
The entrance gate is coming into view.
Due to the recent sumo boom, advance tickets for entry have sold out.
There were no tickets available for purchase on the day.
When you tear off the admission ticket, you will receive the “Today’s Match Schedule (with the Banzuke on the back).”
The main entrance of Ryogoku Kokugikan
Now, finally, let’s enter inside Ryogoku Kokugikan.
As soon as you enter, you will find free “Spectator’s Guidebook” available.
It contains a map and recommendations for souvenirs and boxed lunches at Ryogoku Kokugikan.
The guidebook also includes a list of the ages of the top-division rikishi (sumo wrestlers), with the youngest being Ochiai at 20 years old and the oldest being Tamawashi at 39 years old. You might witness matches between these two wrestlers with a generation’s difference during the current tournament.
The entrance hall with its beautifully layered raised ceiling features a general information desk, a booth for the Grand Sumo Fan Club, four wall paintings, a display case for championship cups, and faces the Sumo Museum.
Here are four wall paintings.
The significantly large Prime Minister’s Cup that you may have seen on TV.
The Sumo Museum
The Sumo Museum opens at 12:30 PM. Photography is prohibited inside the museum, so I will take notes on the displayed items.
- “Dohyo-sai” Ritual Items: These are ceremonial objects used during the Dohyo-sai ritual. Before the matches start, these items are buried in the center hole of the dohyo (sumo ring) to pray for safety during the matches, the success of the event, and the well-being of the nation, as well as abundant harvests. The items include kelp, dried squid, roasted chestnuts, kaya seeds, salt, and washed rice, all placed in a dish, covered, wrapped in a sacred paper, and tied with a decorative cord called “mizuhiki.”
- “Kamiokuri” Ritual Items: In this ritual, wrestlers whose shikona (ring names) are listed in the upcoming tournament’s banzuke (ranking sheet) lift a referee of the Juryo division who carries a gohei (sacred staff) and return the divine spirit to the heavens.
- Painting of Nomi no Sukune: Nomi no Sukune, a legendary figure from 2000 years ago, often referred to as the god of sumo.
- Picture and Model of Honjo Ekoin: The picture and model represent Honjo Ekoin, where sumo matches were held before the construction of Ryogoku Kokugikan.
- Painting of Raiden: A painting of Raiden, who is considered the strongest sumo wrestler in history, active between 1801 and 1811. He was reported to be 197 cm tall and weigh 170 kg.
- Nomi no Sukune Shrine Souvenir Shop: At this shop, visitors can purchase popular omikuji (fortune-telling paper) for 400 yen. These omikuji are inside small dolls representing sumo wrestlers.
Yagura
There is a recommended spot that can only be seen during the May tournament.
It is the rooftop on the second floor in front. The azaleas are in full bloom and look beautiful.
The photo is taken with the “yagura” in the background.
This “yagura” is where the “hanedaiko” drum is played when the tying of the top division wrestlers’ matches concludes and the audience starts to leave.
It is not a recording; an actual person (a yobidashi, a sumo ring announcer) rides the elevator and goes up to play the drum live for about 20 minutes.
It is the sound that goes “Tototo, Toto, Toton” at the end of NHK’s live broadcast coverage of the tournament.
Information desk (or Information center)
Those who purchased admission tickets with souvenirs will enter through the information desk located on the left side of the entrance.
Once inside, there is a teahouse where the paper bags containing souvenirs are displayed, and they will guide you to your seat.
Photo Spot
Ryogoku Kokugikan is designed to have a pathway that goes around the perimeter of both the first and second floors.
Along this pathway, there are shops, souvenirs, restrooms, and more. On the second floor, there is a photo spot where you can take commemorative pictures with life-sized panels of sumo wrestlers.
You stand on the stairs to position yourself appropriately with the green decorative apron (mawashi) and take the photo.
Gourmet at Ryogoku Kokugikan
While touring Ryogoku Kokugikan, before you know it, it’s already noon, and you start to feel hungry.
For lunch, let’s head to the chanko-nabe (sumo stew) shop on the basement floor.
In a surprisingly bright and spacious hall for a basement, you can enjoy a bowl of chanko-nabe for just 500 yen.
The chanko-nabe here is really delicious, so be sure to try it.
- The chicken bone broth has infused the chicken and vegetables well, making it delicious.
- The chicken is so tender that it melts in your mouth.
- The soup has a rich flavor. Therefore, you can also buy a bento from the shops and enjoy it with rice.
The grilled chicken skewers, a specialty of Ryogoku Kokugikan, are also highly recommended.
I’m not sure if they are made in the basement of Ryogoku Kokugikan, but they have a delicious seasoning that tastes good even when cold.
Sumo Wrestlers
Around 2:00 PM, the Makuuchi division wrestlers start arriving, and fans with cameras gather on the west side road (JR side) of Ryogoku Kokugikan.
The arrival time of the wrestlers varies, so if you’re lucky, you can see them.
The attendants carrying luggage are their assistants, while the wrestlers themselves walk empty-handed.
Sumo Wrestling Match
At 2:15 PM, the Juryo division (second highest division) wrestlers perform their ring-entering ceremony.
At 3:40 PM, there is a break.
After the Makuuchi division wrestlers’ ring-entering ceremony, the Yokozuna (Grand Champion) ring-entering ceremony takes place, and then the matches of the Makuuchi division begin.
Compared to Jonokuchi wrestlers, Juryo and Makuuchi wrestlers are one size larger in body and deliver stronger impacts during the matches.
Even an amateur can sense their agility and efficient use of their bodies, which sets them apart from the lower division wrestlers.
One significant difference between watching live at the venue and on TV is the sense of presence.
The cheering voices of the audience supporting the wrestlers are not as audible on TV, but inside the arena, they are loud and clear.
Voices like “Shoudai!” or “Ounoshou, ganbare!” can be heard from both children and adults, men and women, creating a vibrant atmosphere.
And, the final match, especially the Yokozuna match, is always the most exciting.
During the bow-twirling ceremony, some spectators who want to avoid the crowds start leaving quickly without watching.
If they leave without watching, it seems they can avoid waiting too long at Ryogoku Station to return home.
On this day, I had special limited seating called “Masu C seat” for two people.
As it was the last row of the masu seating (15th row), I couldn’t see the wrestlers’ faces, but I could still feel the power and intensity of the matches.
＼Here are the recommended seats at Ryogoku Kokugikan／
Summary
That concludes my first sumo wrestling experience.
The seating capacity of Ryogoku Kokugikan is 10,000 spectators.
While there were a few empty seats in the reserved seating area, all tickets were sold out.
When calculating the daily revenue, with an admission fee of about 10,000 yen per person, it amounts to approximately 100 million yen.
I hope that the popularity of sumo continues, and the sumo industry further thrives.
Many sumo fans are repeaters, and I’ve heard that some people sit in the same seat every day. However, as a first-time attendee, I was able to feel the charm of sumo.
For information on how to purchase sumo tickets, please refer to the guidelines provided here.
Thank you for reading until the end.
